Thursday, September 16 - After spending a couple hectic days getting organized, trying to keep my double bike box under eighty pounds and my other checked and carry on under forty-five pounds I was on my way to the Philadelphia Airport for my 3:30 flight. Sandy drove me to the airport and we arrived at US Airways departing flights at 12:30 with lots of time to spare. At check-in I was informed that my bike would cost $135 each way to and from Miami, $35 charge as a second piece and $100 bike (oversize/over weight) fee. Woo Hoo! My cheap $280 flight has now jumped to $600. At least the two check-in clerks were courteous. I just love traveling with a bike. Oh well, on to the gauntlet at the Transportation Security Administration Check Point (TSA). There was no line going through the maze, screening and metal detectors, so they had time to single me out for a “special” search. I was instructed to enter a little glass cubicle between the screening machines and told to stand there and wait for an officer. Meanwhile, two other officers descended on my tray and carry-on that had just come off the belt and indicated to me with hand signals that they were taking them to an alcove over in the corner. I only stood there for about five to ten minutes before still another officer opened the door of the cubicle and waved me over to the alcove. Here they took turns explaining what they were going to search of the tray, carry-on and my body. They said if I felt uncomfortable or embarrassed by the procedure we could step into an enclosed room. I said I was okay and they proceeded. They inspected every item visually, with a swab and with a wand. They inspected every inch of my person, discovering the titanium plate in my shoulder and the tiniest of key (used on those little luggage locks) deep in my pocket. To say this was thorough would be a gross understatement. I didn’t m ind though. This is one of the reasons I like to arrive early.

Next stop was the Au Bon Pain delicatessen for a very nice turkey melt sandwich and one of the best cups of coffee I believe I have ever tasted. Total cost with second cup of coffee was $10.64. Not bad for Philly Airport cuisine. Our flight was delayed about one hour, so we would be late getting into Miami. Hopefully, I’ll get to the hotel before dark. I am continuing my good fortune as far as seating is concerned. I have my isle seat, there is no one in the seat next to me, and the gal at the window seat is the best looking woman on the flight, classic Miamian. Next stop Miami.

The transfer shuttle from the airport to the hotel was a cinch. I arrived at the La Quinta Inn & Suites at about 8:00pm where they upgraded my room for some unknown reason, but I’m not complaining. The room was nice and I didn’t have to lug my bike box too far. I saw there was a Bennigan’s Restaurant nearby, so went there for dinner. It offers the best of American and Irish cuisine, of course American and Irish are probably the two of the worst diets in the world. I had an Irish Dip Beef sandwich and a Bass Ale. This more than satisfied my daily requirement of sodium, fat, cholesterol and alcohol, although, it did hit the spot. Easy to see why the typical American is overweight.

Friday, September 17 - W oke up at 6:00am ready to go. Arrived at the Miami Airport at about 9:00 and joined the forming group at our check-in with Marazul Charter at 10:00am. Our flight to Cuba would be with TACA Airline out of El Salvador. I received my visa and other required travel documents. There was no question about my bike case or checked bag which were both somewhat overweight. There were 56 travelers in our (Mike Fraysse’s) group and probably more than 30 bike boxes. Everyone checked through without question. The group consists of what looks like fairly serious masters (35+) cyclists. Of those I spoke with it would appear that half are doing track and road. The veterans of prior Cuba trips reinforced how enjoyable this whole experience is going to be. The flight took off nearly on schedule at 2:10pm. Next stop Havana. I’m starting to get excited, now. Touchdown at Jose Marti Airport, Havana, Cuba will be at 2:52pm, eight minutes ahead of schedule.

We touched down in Havana slightly ahead of schedule. W e cleared Cuban Immigration easy enough, but soon realized our luggage did not make our plane. Seems our bike boxes overwhelmed the cargo capacity of our craft, so they had to put our luggage and bike boxes on a cargo plane that would follow us. This gave us a two and a half hour “respite” in the baggage claim area. After we received our baggage we were quickly through customs and on to the three awaiting tour buses that would carry us and our cargo to the hotel. As we were waiting for the buses to be loaded most of us descended on a refreshment stand and had our first Cuban beer, Bucanera. It was quite refreshing after the hurry up and wait at the luggage carousal. As we headed out for the hotel we drove through some very lush and undeveloped land other than acre upon acre of mango and banana groves. It was quite beautiful and undisturbed so close to a city the size (2.5 million) of Havana.

Our stay is at the three-star, beachfront Hotel Tropicoco. It won an architectural award in the early 90’s when it was built, but is a bit on the shabby side today. That is not to say that it is not adequate. The desk and staff personnel are all very helpful and courteous and my room is air conditioned, neat and clean. The buffet dinner was nice with a fresh salad bar, a couple of soups, three types of pasta dishes, fish, chicken, rice, polenta, potatoes and a desert bar. I had a decent glass of “tinto vino”, a dry, Cuban, red, table wine to top off a very pleasing first dinner, here. After dinner I retired to the bar for my first Cuba Libra in Cuba. . .awesome. After that I went back to the room and assembled my bicycles, as we have a training ride tomorrow with the Cuban National Team. It is now 11:40 and I am dragging. See you again at 6:00am.

Saturday, September 18 - Woke up at 6:30 and took my time getting ready for breakfast feeling none the worse for wear after the drinks of last evening. As I filled my water bottles and went to slip them into the bottle cages I realized that I had installed the cages upside down. I decided it may be a good idea to go over all the bolts, etc on my bikes after that startling discovery . Guess I could blame it on the Cuba Libra.

7:00am Breakfast - Once again the buffet was very good. It was very much like the breakfast at the Hotel Ponent Mar in Majorca. It included hard cooked and scrambled eggs, French toast, a variety of hot and cold cereals, an assortment of Cuban breakfast dishes (yum), mangos and papayas to die for, toast and jams, coffee from one of those great machines like they have at the Hotel Gran San Bernardo in Italy, as well as several types of ultra fresh juices. W e have a big 25 mile ride in an easy gear planned for today, so I had to eat up.

The 9:00am orientation meeting was just a bit more organizational nuts and bolts and everyone was eager to get out and roll. At about 10:00 we rolled out toward the Reinaldo Paseriero National Velodrome. We rode directly to the autopista and headed in the direction of Havana. Although this was a four lane highway with wide shoulders we stayed in the right lane and off the debris strewn shoulder. The drivers were very courteous, slowing and passing only in the left lane. Not one time did anyone react negatively to our presence on this major thoroughfare. I have never experience such respect on the road . . .anywhere. In fact, our interaction with the Cubans has been entirely positive, if not delightful. W e would ask directions or a question of a person along the road and they always responded cheerfully and were genuinely happy to help. The reason we rode the highway was because it is the most direct route to the Velodrome, one we will be taking several times over the next few days. The secondary roads are also somewhat sketchy. We saw a never ending parade of 1940’s and 50’s vintage Chevys, Fords, Mercurys, Packards, DeSotos mixed in with late model Peugeots, Fiats, Mercedes and the like. One gal in our party said she had expected to see a few 1950's American cars, but not all of them. It is amazing to see how well these old cars have been maintained, despite the embargo by the USA.

The distance to the track is about nine miles mostly flat terrain which should provide a very good warm up. The National Velodrome is the nicest outdoor 333 meter track I have ever seen. It is a huge concrete structure with huge lighting standards, a covered grandstand, two underground entrances, a large very complete workshop with very good mechanics, lavatories, showers and bike rooms for each of the national teams in attendance. The track itself is more round than Trexlertown, more steeply banked at probably 45 degrees on the corners and 15 degrees on the straights. It also has two large warm up circuits in the center and pit areas lining the inside of turns three and four with roofing to protect riders from the sun. Despite a few cracks on the otherwise smooth and very fast surface, this is truly a firstclass facility. The bus that took those riders to the track who wanted to train there also took my track bike and it was stowed with the other bikes in our team’s bike room.

From here my small group of seven riders rode on toward Havana. Our destination was El Morro Castle, actually a fort, overlooking the stunning Havana skyline on the other side of the harbor. Access to the capital city is through a tunnel under the harbor not open to cyclists, so this historic and well maintained fortress was as close as we could get, but what a spectacular view of Havana. After a proper visit we headed back to the Hotel Tropicoco. Along the way we rode into a headwind and encountered our first rainfall. It was very odd. The sun was blazing, but it was raining. I guess the wind was intentionally blowing the rain at us. There is no other explanation. It did, however, feel refreshing on this ninety degree day.

I arrived back at the hotel on a dry bike that didn’t appear to have been rained upon in time to take a shower, wash my kit and head to lunch by 1:30. After lunch I walked around the hotel, checked out the surrounding business and residences and headed for the beach to take some photos of the local “scenery”. I’ve got to say that Cuba and the people I have met so far are not what I expected. The country is beautiful and unspoiled. The infrastructure is the best I have seen in the Caribbean to include Puerto Rico. And the people are anything but depressed or depressing. They are beautiful and seem very happy.

This evening’s meal was very good. I joined Joe and Dottie Saling and Robert Kowal. I was asked to be on an Olympic Sprint Team with Earl Henry and Mike Howard. Pat Gellineau also asked me to join him, Joe Saling and Bob Malovany in the Team Pursuit. Although I was honored I had to decline both offers, as I have my Individual Pursuit qualifier before and final after both events. I couldn’t do my best in the pursuit of the pursuit championship, otherwise. I hit the sack at 11:30pm with the window wide open listening to the surf and breathing the fresh sea air. See you in the morning

Sunday, September 19 - Rise and shine at 7:00am and head down to breakfast. This is the life, sleep, eat, ride, eat and sleep. We still have one more day of training and preparation before we go to work on Monday. - At 9:00 those roadies who wanted to recon the road time trial course cued up in front of the hotel. We headed toward Havana for about nine miles then took another highway inland for another nine miles, or so, to the autopista that we would use for our 10 km time trial, tomorrow. Since the course is on a four lane highway that will be closed for the event, it has got to be one of the potentially fastest circuits I will have ridden. If I have a good day the surface, lack of technicality and distance may combine with my current level of fitness to provide me with a 30mph average speed for the first time in my life. I will have my fingers crossed (on the aerobars). The 40 mile ride finished up with Joe Saling, Pat Gellineau and I doing a six mile, small gear, high cadence team time trial back to the hotel. It was a really nice ride through beautiful countryside with a bunch of great riders.

I was able to make it to lunch by 1:30pm and decided that protein should be the consideration today. I had the Cuban staple, rice and peas, along with large helpings of pork, meatballs and a lot of greens and fruit. After lunch I joined Steve Smith of New York City in the lounge for a coffee and we discussed training thoughts. As we were about to head out I was approached by Betsy Davis who figured I was a good roadie to ask for a specific tool she needed. As it turned out she didn’t need a tool, but needed a spacer between her cassette and wheel. I had no such thing, but thought I would check with the Argentinean team who were in the rooms next to mine. I didn’t have much hope, but they had one and offered it to me, no questions asked. I got it to her. She was overjoyed and here I am, retired to my room with my legs up in air conditioned comfort and writing this account.

Uh, oh! Just back from dinner and I didn’t get to the room any too soon. . .DIARRHEA! Seems something I ate or drank didn’t agree with me. I haven’t drunk or eaten anything outside the hotel. I immediately took a double dose of anti-diarrhea medication and hope it helps. I can’t become dehydrated with the week I have ahead of me. Tomorrow is the Time Trial and I have a realistic shot at a victory there. Again, my fingers are crossed.

Monday, September 20 - I slept well through the night and didn’t seem to have anymore problems with the GI track. Nonetheless, I had a relatively light and easy to digest breakfast of toast, cream of rice, cheese, mango juice and only one cup of coffee. Hopefully, this selection was the foods that bind. We loaded up the bus for the track and on the way to my seat I hit my head on a very sharp object. It seems the Columbian team, who was filling the isle having a party, had put one of their bikes up spanning the overhead luggage racks on either side of the bus. The handlebar of this bike with a pointed brake lever was hanging down, so as I was negotiating around one of their riders I walked right into it. I wasn’t very happy about it. They hung a flag from it, so this wouldn’t happen again. The cut wasn’t too deep, but it did bleed a bit.

We arrived at the race course at 8:30, I got my bike and laid into my twenty minute warm up. The course itself was ideal for this, as it was out and back and relatively flat. I returned to the start line a little past 9:00am and was informed the race wouldn’t start until 10:00. Oh well, my warm up should last with a refresher about fifteen minute or so before my new start time of 10:22. On time, I did my final preparation and presented myself to the cue. W e departed on one minute intervals and since I have no history at the Pan Am Championships I was seeded last, or first to depart in my age category. The rider ahead of me was a small Cuban in the 65-69 age category and the apparent number one seed of that group. He took off and one minute later I was in hot pursuit. I had a good start and quickly got up to the level of effort I believed I could handle. I felt very fast and caught my Cuban minuteman at about the two mile point. I had a problem overshooting the turnaround, as I expected it was up the road a bit and not on the dirt path cut through the medial strip of this four lane highway. The snafu couldn’t have cost me more than five seconds, though. In short order I was back in hot pursuit of my two minute man and caught him with one mile to go. The 500 meter run in to the finish was up a hill of maybe 3 - 4 percent gradient, but the view of the finish line banner and awaiting checkered flag and tailwind helped keep the speed up. I felt I had a good run and one of my teammates told me they announced that I had the fastest time of the day, at that point, 13 minutes and 9 seconds. That sounded like I felt, a 28 mph average speed effort on a relatively flat course. Unfortunately, the official results later did not jive with that announcement. My effort was only good for second behind the winner, Albert Raven, representing Aruba. My official time was 13:48, a very slow time for me, and his, 13:22. I was very disappointed, but put on a happy face for the podium and gave the winner and third place their due. Turns out Albert was a retired Dutch pro who now lives in Aruba. He won this event in 2009. Our entire team did very well, earning 10-15 medals and three Champion’s jerseys.

Upon return to the Tropicoco I had lunch with Joe and Dottie, then went out behind the hotel and rode the motorcycle race track back there that will be used for the criterium course on Friday. It is a six corner circuit with five left hand turns and one right hander and most of the corners are slightly banked. It should be fun, but not an easy course for a successful attack. You would never be out of sight.

Tonight was the special dinner at Hotel National in downtown Havana. This is Cuba‘s most famous hotel and has been the haunt of movie stars, entertainers, racketeers, politicians and the like. It reminds me of the Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables, Florida. W hat a beautiful property. The grounds are lush and well manicured. We toured the lobby and dining hall where we were to eat and headed for the lawn overlooking the harbor and El Moro Castle for cocktails. Here I had my first real Cuba Libra in Cuba, 8 year old Havana Club and Coca Cola sweetened with cane sugar. After about a half hour of taking in the fresh air and beverages we retired too the grand dining room where a very formal waitstaff greeted us and showed us to our seats at the long beautifully set table. The entire affair was quite exquisite, and the meal was excellent, as well. The meal started with a smoked salmon appetizer, followed by medallions of filet mignon and was finished with a very nice chocolate mouse. This was served with a very nice red wine, Italian mineral water and espresso. All this was presented on china manufactured in Syracuse, New York before the embargo, crystal and silver. In attendance were several officials from the Cuban and Pan American Cycling Federations and a legendary coach and mentor of many major league baseball players to have come out of Cuba.

On our return to the hotel I made a quick check of the schedule for tomorrow. I have been seeded number one, last to run, in the 500 meter time trial at the Velodrome. I hope this will also be an indication of a victory in that event. Sweet dreams.

Tuesday, September 21 - Okay, this was a long-ass day, but rewarding at a price. At a meeting last evening Mike Fraysee said we may be trapped at the Velodrome all day, as there are so many time trials to plow through. The schedule had also been changed to move the sprint finals and the pursuits to Wednesday and the Team events to Thursday. As much as I would like to do a team event after today I will need a day off on Thursday. That’s the goal. . .make it to Thursday and what will be a much needed day off the bike.

We departed the hotel at 8:00am. I took my road bike, so I could leave the Velodrome after my 500 meter TT. Unfortunately, my event went off late, there was a rumor that I won (but no official confirmation), and if I did I should stay for the awards ceremony. W ell, today’s events really dragged on and eventually it was 1:00pm and they were saying the awards ceremony would not happen until the 5:00pm session. Mike informed us that a bus would take those who were finished for the day back to the hotel. He added, however, that the bus would be picking riders up for the afternoon session and depart the hotel ten minutes after it arrived. I decided I would take the bus back to the hotel and either ride back to the Velodrome or take a taxi. Pat Gellineau was on the bus and said he was only going back to eat lunch. He said he could eat in ten minutes. I decided to join him, so we had a nice relaxing lunch and raced back to the bus where we were informed that it was not going back until 3:00pm. I still didn’t know if I had won, placed or showed, but I figured I better stay in my uniform (ugh-h-h-h) and take the bus.

We got to the Velodrome at 3:30 and sat around until the scratch races began. They said the awards would be mixed into the races. There were a lot of people in the stands, especially many 13 - 15 year old Cuban kids, possibly junior high school students. The first race featured Joe Saling making a very strong move under the field at turn two in the fifth lap of a ten-lap scratch race. He held strong and had a half lap on the field at the finish. There were a couple more races, then the awards. Yeah! I won the 500 meters with an un-stellar time of 40.9, but after yesterday’s question mark I’ll take it. After that the evening dragged on and on until the officials said it was too dark (at 7:30pm) to continue with the awards ceremony. W hat a relief, I can get on a bus. I was back at the hotel by 8:00, only twelve hours after I left tired, starving and reeking from my day in the sun.

I took a quick shower, dropped my clothing into a basin of soapy water and headed for the dining room by 8:30. After dinner I called Sandy. The hotel has ony one phone we can use for calls to the USA. It is at the desk and at 9:30pm it is very busy. W hen I finally got to the phone and made the connection there were people all around me. A guy was unpacking and repacking a backpack right next to the phone, while a group of Bueno Vista Club wantabe’s were waling away in the club just under the lobby. Given the stress of the day and my fatigue I was no desirable conversationalist. Sandy said she had received a call from a man in England who has a sone suffering from blood clots and he would like me to email him. Unfortunately, there really is no internet here at the hotel, unless you count 1990’s dialup and without wifi my computer is worthless for communication.

Wednesday, September 22 - 6:00am Breakfast - Called Sandy first thing to apologize for the call of last evening. She said I sounded very tired and stressed. I was also concerned that the “exposure” of yesterday would come back to bite me in the butt today. This is the championship I want to win, the 2000 meter pursuit, and I want to ride not only a good effort, but a great one. I will be pleased with the a good time and a win, but a “best time of the day” would set all demons to rest. 9:30am: Women’s and Men’s Individual Pursuit Qualifying - I have been doing my “twenty minute warm up” around the outside of the Velodrome. Each morning I have been treated with riding in front of an outstanding group of track and field athletes going through their morning drills. They all look like young Flo Jo’s and Usain Bolt’s doing bounding and coordination drills under the watchful eyes of several coaches. The beauty of this island is so much more than the palm trees and immaculate beaches. It’s the people. They are cheerful, bright and enthusiastic.

At today’s track events there have been a lot of scratches. I guess the combination of the heat and unlikelihood of a medal have kept riders back at the hotel. . .or on the beach. I was to have ridden against a Columbian rider in the 2K qualifier, but he decided not to show. I didn’t know this, as I was focused on my own effort. I thought for my effort I would have caught or even seen him, but the reason I didn’tsee him is he wasn’t even there. My time, however, was 2:35.9 which felt really good for the conditions. By the time I ran at nearly 11:00am the temperature was already well above 90 degrees and the wind was very strong in turn four and down the home straight. This run gave me the best qualifying time in age group 60-64. The rider I will face in the gold/silver finals is Aureliano De Jesus of Venezuela. He finished with a time of 2:50.1 and I will see to it that he is dead meat in the final. This is the pursuit and I not only want to pursue, but I want to shock and awe.

Shortly after I rode Pat Gellineau was up and I offered to mark where his opponent was during his ride. This is done by standing at the start line and moving toward turn one if he is ahead or turn four if he is behind. Except for his first lap Pat was always ahead and won handily. He posted a 2:37.9 and his opponent a 2:42. Pat’s was the fastest qualifying time in his category, 55-59, and he gets my bet for another Pan Am Champ jersey. As it turned out I had the fastest time of all male riders over 50 years of age and female categories, as well.

I took the bus back to the hotel for a shower and lunch. I didn’t have to race again until probably 4:30. I had a nice high-carbohydrate lunch and went back to my room to put my legs up. This afternoon’s schedule has the Sprint Finals first, then the Pursuit Finals, and then the awards. I will be racing for gold. I only have to beat him, but would be really happy with a better run than this morning’s. I left for the track feeling ready, willing and able.

Upon arrival at the track I immediately went into my pre-race warm up. The one I did this morning couldn’t be revived after the subsequent five hours. I finished the warm up off with a couple of hard small gear jumps and a couple of large gear slow-rolling, big gear starts. I was ready. Unfortunately, my opponent for the gold/ silver run was not. He forfeited and I was awarded the win. It’s not what I came here for, but who could I blame? Mike Frayzze offered to allow me to ride anyway to try to put up a better time, but I figured I probably wouldn’t beat my 2:35, as the conditions deteriorated. In fact, the skies opened up and the awards ceremony was postponed until tomorrow. On the way home the bus driver had the radio on and I heard my name on Havana radio. How cool is that?

Thursday, September 23 - Breakfast with Maria from Guatemala at 7:30am . Tourism or Preparedness, that is the question. Maria said she would like to take the bus to Havana for a tour of the city and do some shopping. I said I would like to do the same and that today may be the only day I would have. We decided to see how things looked later in the morning. Unfortunately, I found out that awards would probably be given sometime after 12:00 noon. I also was invited to join a few riders and ride the road race and crit course. So much for shopping. I hope Maria doesn’t wait around for me.

I joined Cathy McNamara, California and newly crowned Pan Am Time Trial Champion, for a reconnoiter of the criterium and road race venues. Both events will take place within eyeshot of our hotel. The crit will take place on a one and a half kilometer, motor cycle circuit in an athletic complex behind the hotel. The course is roughly “L” shaped with five, slightly banked, left hand turns and one right hander. It reminds me of the TTown Fitness Park circuit without any trees or hill. It is wide open, so the wind will definitely be a factor.

The Road Race will be contested on an eight corner, four kilometer circuit with a relatively steep 150 meter climb each lap. I am looking to see a selection being made on this short, but significant, ascent. I think I will like the course. There is nothing more than a sprinter hill which I can handle and the wind will give a larger rider such as me a distinct advantage over smaller riders. The race will start and finish behind the hotel. The distance to the finish out of turn eight will be into a headwind and a straight shot for a very long 250 meters. I think it will take all kind of control on my part to not sprint too early. I must control myself and exhibit patience, patience, patience.

Rode to Velodrome with Joe at 11:30. Arrived at the bike room in the Velodrome and there was Maria working on her bike in the mechanic’s room. I guess I shouldn’t wait for her, either. Through the early afternoon I watched a lot of points races including the 60-64 contest. That race was won by a stocky and very strong looking Argentinean, Roberto Ortiz. Later he saw me near our bike room. In Spanish loosely translated by one of his teammates he thanked me for not taking part in his race as he was sure I would have won. He then gave me a big hug and kiss even though his skinsuit was rolled down to his waist and he was still sweating profusely. Hey, he was overtaken with joy and I was now very wet.

The racing continued until about 2:30 when a thunderstorm with a tropical downpour ended the final race prematurely. After some debate the UCI officials determined enough of the race was completed to name finishing places and then on to awards. Since they were unable to finish the awards yesterday due to rain the ceremony for the remaining track races would take place this afternoon, under shelter. The ceremony with some formality including the National Anthem of the winners went on until after 5:00pm. On the way back to the hotel I spoke with a Miamian sprinter named Roger Hernandez. It turns out he s a good friend of a buddy of mine, Eddy Cucina. He left Cuba 17 years ago in a rowboat and is now a US citizen. As he arrived in Florida he was picked up by Immigration and sent to Guantonamo for one year and fifteen day before being returned to the US for resettlement in Miami. He did not see his wife or child for eleven years. They are now in the States with him and in fact his wife was with him on this their first trip home, together. I remember the greeting he and his wife received from their extended families at the Havana Airport.

As we exited the highway and headed down to the beach and the Hotel Tropicoco I was taken by the beauty of this stretch of road. The medial strip that separates the lanes is perfectly manicured with evenly spaced, lush, pink flower bushes. I just can’t stress how orderly and neat most of the “public works” are. We arrived back at the hotel at 6:00, another incredibly long day.

As a result of the time I have spent at the track, about 30 of the past 60 hours, I have experienced edema in both lower legs for the first time in quite a while, maybe a couple of years. It is not easy to take prophylactic measures on such a schedule, but I must be more diligent. Henceforth, compression stockings will have a permanent place in my track bag. As a precaution I will inject Lovenox (heparin) in the evenings to keep the blood viscosity low and prevent the formation of DVT‘s (deep vein thrombosis).

For more information on blood clots and the endurance athlete go to http://www.stevelehmantours.com/html/tips.html

Friday, September 24 - Got up early and packed my track bike. I am actually looking forward to the end of the competition, although I still have the criterium today and the road race tomorrow. I don’t mind placing myself in the pain cave of racing, but I hate the hours of waiting to do it. Although I have only done three races, so far, I have actually warmed up twice that many times. Most warm ups have lost their effect before I actually got to race, so I would have to “refresh” my legs again before my delayed event. I am not taking anything away from the organization of these Games. With all the riders, categories, languages, etc. it appears to be a daunting task, at best. The promoters, officials, volunteers, mechanics and medical staff have embraced this event with uncommon enthusiasm. Everyone seems proud of their part.

At 7:00am I went down to breakfast. I was joined by Diane Harris of the Artimus Team out of Washington, DC. She is a very fit woman who reminds me of Maria Colazzo, cute, petite and hard as nails winning the 500 meter time trial on the track. She is looking forward to the crit, her favorite event. She, too, rode a Havnoonian bicycle. Although I really love my Havnoonian and it has served me well for eleven seasons, now, I seldom see another at the races.

The criterium course was changed to a simple one mile, counter-clockwise, four corner circuit around the Hotel Tropicoco. W hile the course was pretty straight forward the wind of the Gulf of Mexico would provide a challenge on the home straight. The racing kicked off at 9:00am with the women’s races. If they run races for each age category I should go off at around 12:00 noon. If they combine the women’s fields I could go off before 10:30. Oh well, here we go. I’ll probably be doing two warm ups again today.

Uh, oh! I saw Mike and he told me to get out to the start line, as we (the guys over age 60) will be running on the circuit with the women. The officials have decided to run the combined male 60-64 and 65-69 categories together and send the women off after us in one minute’s time. Our race has also been cut to 15 kilometers. I have no problem with this, but others think it is too short. I’ll just start ripping legs sooner.

At the start I went to the front and led the group out at a moderate pace. I continued to ride at the front through turns one and two and down the back straight. I slowed and rode in the right gutter of this four lane boulevard with most of the field on my wheel. Another rider was riding down the left gutter with several riders on his wheel, as well. I had decided to attack at turn three, so when we were about 50 meters before the turn I quietly shifted up two gears and gave it everything I had. In the center of turn three there was a manhole cover I knew would intimidate the riders on my wheel. W ith this in mind I started my jump from the right gutter, dove left and through the one meter gap between the curb and cover. I caught the field completely by surprise with this early, vicious attack. I stayed on full throttle though turn four, into the headwind of the home straight, through turns one and two and down the back straight before looking back. I had opened up a huge gap on the field, but there were two riders bearing down on me. I settled into a time trial pace and made them work to complete the bridge. Once they made contact I indicated that we should work together and they were willing. If this succeeded we were all on the podium. The two riders were the Dutchman from Aruba, Albert Raven, who won the time trial on Monday and a Cuban rider, Raul Vazquez. It became apparent that the Dutchman and I would be racing for the gold, as the Cuban was struggling to keep the pace and do equal pulls. My thought was that it was good  to have him in the break, as there were several Cubans back in the field who may try to come across if we were to drop their teammate. W e continued to work and pull away from the pack. As we entered the final two turns I got stuck at the front. I was not worried. I rode slowly and figured I would just gradually increase the speed during the final 200 meter run to the finish and control the sprint. The Cuban, however, thought better and took off with nearly 200 meters to go. The Dutchman and I both jumped on his wheel, he on the left and me on the right. At about 125 meters the Dutchman jumped hard and so did I. Hearing us the Cuban decided to swerve to the right and nearly took me down, causing me to back pedal and veer to the right to avoid him. This created a sizable gap between me and the Dutchman. I sprinted for all I was worth, caught him at the line and threw my bike. Unfortunately, he did too and won the race by a mere three centimeters (one inch). I was very disappointed. I rode a great race, created a selection and was the fastest sprinter. The erratic riding of the Cuban was not intentional, but was the undoing of my best effort anyway. Hey, I told myself, get over it. This is bicycle racing where preparedness and opportunity seldom meet. I left the start/finish line, cooled off and came back for the awards. I really do hate second fiddle.

After the awards I found out that Albert Raven has been racing for over 46 years, is a former professional and has been selected by Holland several times for their national team. He is also a personal friend of an old triathlete friend of mine, Gert Van Vliet, who owns a very successful bike/tri shop in Aruba called Tri Bike Aruba. Vazquez has and impressive resume’, as well, having won the road race of the elite Pan American Games representing Cuba in 1975. For his legendary strength and toughness, Vazquez is known in Cuba as “locomotora de Coln” or the locomotive of Coln. I was in good company!.

After my race I saw Sylvan Smith from Montreal. I first met him on the starting grid at the Gran Fondo Nove Colli. He is also a regular at the Coupes des Amerique finishing second there in 2008 and 2009. This year he is on fire. He rode the Canadian National Road Race Championship and won the 50-54 age category, no mean feat. He was as Phil Liggett would say, resplendent in his National Champ jersey.

After lunch I decided to join the group on a bus tour of Havana. It looked like an interesting city and I felt like being a tourist, at least for a few hours. Maybe I could do some shopping. Our tour guide was a fellow named Luis. He gave us insight into the world of Cuba that we would never hear in the USA. Here is what he said:

-Cuba is the size of England -Rainy season from May to November. It will rain everyday in the PM.

-Dry season from November to May. Only rain is when a cold front comes

through. That is one thing that the US embargo allows into Cuba

-It is the home to 11.2 million people

-Havana is the capital and largest city and has a population of 2.5 million

-In 1958 less than 40 % of the population could read. Today literacy is 100%.

-He, as are most people in Cuba, is paid by the state.

-He is paid approximately the equivalent of $15 per standard work week or

300 Cuban Pesos

-80 cents (US) buys one Tourist Peso (CUC)

-He owns his home, but cannot sell it to another individual.

-All citizens receive an education to 9th grade, then they go to a technical school

or college preparatory.

-University is paid by the state and 46% of prep school grads go to university.

-Cuban citizens are allowed to leave Cuba without permission. Doctors, recently graduated university students who have not performed required "social service", military and certain gov't officials still need a visa to travel abroad

-The USA is the only major country in the world that does not have an embassy in Cuba.

We traveled through every major neighborhood of Havana. Most neighborhoods appeared run down. Somehow the social system just doesn't take into consideration the exterior of apartment buildings. We were told that Havana now requires any company that does business in Havana must adopt a building or neighborhood (depending on size of the company) and restore the buildings, therein. I saw such neighborhoods and the improvement is amazing. We toured the four major plazas in old Havana and the architecture is stunning whether restored or not. We enjoyed some refreshments at a couple of nice outdoor cafe's. I also bought a small box of cigars and a straw ferdora. All in all a very nice visit and enough tourism for me.

Saturday, September 25 - 9:00am - Before I get started on the final day of the Pan Am Masters Cycling Championships I should give you a better feel for the event. There were nearly 200 cyclists from eighteen countries including Argentina, Aruba, Brazil, Bolivia, Canada, Columbia, Costa Rica, Chile, Cuba, Equador, Guatemala, Mexico, Panama, Paraguay, Puerto Rico, Trinidad and Tobago, Venezuela, and the USA. The Championships were held under the auspices of the Pan American Cycling Confederation and hosted by the Cuban Cycling Federation. Given the number of athletes and age categories, different languages, afternoon rains, etc. the event went very smoothly. All road venues were staged on smooth, fast, safe and traffic-free highways, boulevards and streets. The velodrome while buffeted with a headwind on the home straight was fast and certainly one of the best concrete tracks you could hope to race on. The awards ceremonies were executed with all due respect to the countries of the podium placing riders. Rider’s national flags were hoisted and the winner’s national anthem was played at all award giving. Having raced in several championships to include Worlds this was a superior event and one I would highly recommend to anyone looking for top quality, international racing.

The 60-64 Men’s Road Race was shortened to seven laps of this five kilometer circuit, 35 kilometers. I lined up on the front as I did yesterday and Albert Raven, the Dutch/Aruban, lined up in the second row on my wheel. He was definitely marking me. So, just before we got our instructions from the UCI Commissar I moved to the other end of the start line. Let the games begin. At the gun I rolled off, but had no interest in taking control of the race, not yet, anyway. Albert popped out of the front on the other side and did a moderate tempo to the hill after turn one. When he hit the 150 meter hill he nailed it pretty good. I easily stayed on his wheel, but he showed me it would be difficult to ride away from him on the hill. There are, however, 4900 other meters every lap. At 150 meters on the hill we made a 180 degree left turn and dove back down the hill, stretching the field in the process. We went right, through turn three and continued into a headwind for about one, long kilometer. This ended at a left turn followed in 40 meters by another left turn and onto the two kilometer “back stretch” along the beach. Nothing much happened at this point. There were a few half-hearted attacks, but we all stayed together. That is until we approached the turn I had attacked on in the criterium, yesterday. I nailed it hard, looked back, saw Albert was on me and sat up. We continued through the start/ finish line with six laps to go and into turn one and the awaiting hill. Again, I nailed it on the hill and did some damage, but again Albert was on me.

We stretched the field on the hill, but soft pedaled through the turn at the bottom of the hill and into the headwind. We started a rotation and I watched the riders come through. Albert was at the front, Roberto Ortiz, an Argentine rider second, Raul “the locomotive of Coln” Vazquez third and Eladio Ruiz of Mexico came through fourth. I pushed my way onto his wheel and prepared for my next attack. I allowed about a one bike length gap to open between me and the rider in front of me and waited for Albert to pull off the front. As he did I attacked through the dead air between me and Ruiz, accelerated past Vazquez and Ortiz and flew by Albert at probably 10 miles per hour faster then he was going. I caught everyone off guard. I flew headlong into the wind, dove through the next two turns and was flying down the back stretch with the aid of a tail wind. A quick glance back and I had a relatively large gap. I stayed on it riding at a fraction above my time trial pace. I know that Albert and I are closely matched in the time trial and I also knew there was no one in the peleton willing or even capable of matching our maximum pace.

After one lap of this effort there were only nineteen seconds separating me from the chasers, including Albert, and I knew it was me really me against him. At two laps the gap was 25, three laps it was 35 seconds and the chase was broken. I couldn’t believe how fast they fell off after that, but I never let up. I am best when I am running scared and with Albert chasing I wouldn’t feel secure until I took the checkered flag. On the final lap I descended the hill and just before the turn I looked down the home straight and I saw no chasers. I couldn’t believe it. With little water in the bottles and less fuel in the tank I allowed myself the luxury of shifting down two gears and relaxing. I still maintained a high cadence, but the pressure was off. I thanked the Commissar who had been my constant companion during the breakaway and got ready for the triumphant ride down the home straight to the finish. At 150 meters I zipped up, at 100 meters I pointed to my USA Team jersey, at 50 meters I kissed my wedding ring to salute Sandy 2000 miles away and I crossed the line with both hands in the air saluting myself. I had won the final event of the Pan American Masters Cycling Championships by a three minute margin over the chasers, Albert, Ortiz, and Vazquez in that order and five minutes on the field.

I chased Albert down after he crossed the line and congratulated him on winning the sprint for second. He congratulated me on my great victory. He said that the racing this week had taken its toll on him and he was struggling a bit today. He also told me that his compatriots in the chase were not willing to work too hard, so after a few laps he decided he wouldn’t drag them up to me and raced for second. I went into the hotel to fill my water bottles and when I returned Albert said that Ortiz, the Agentine rider who finished third, was protesting my win. He said I was drafting the police motorcycle escort and getting an unfair advantage during the race. Albert said he would not support the Argentinean’s claim, but I had better go defend myself. I immediately went to the Chief UCI referee and in fact the Argentine was still there making an impassioned plea. I grabbed a USA teammate who spoke Spanish and went back to defend myself. How dare he! The referee told the Argentinean rider he would have to present his protest in writing within 15 minutes or he wouldn’t accept it. The Argentinean spun on his heels and was gone, apparently to write his protest. I told my translator to tell the referee that the Commissar was on a motor cycle with me throughout my break, had told the police officer to maintain a distance and he did. I said the only contact between me and the police motor was on two turns where he impeded my progress. The UCI referee, who was sitting at the start/finish line throughout our race, had seen my ride from that vantage point. He gave me a smile and said I had nothing to do to address the protest and had nothing to worry about.

The Awards Ceremony for the Road Race was at least as gratifying to me as was the Pursuit award. The Pursuit award was special because I rode the fastest time of the event for all categories. This award for a Road Race was the first road event I have ever won in an event greater than a State Championship. To have done it in such a way was even more gratifying. Today, in a large part because of the wind, I was the only rider to have won in an individual breakaway. The three minute advantage was the talk of the day. Oh, sweet celebrity. I can say I have left my mark on the 2010 Pan American Masters Cycling Championships with five events, two memorable finishes, three wins and two seconds.

Sylvan Smith, current Canadian National Road Race Champion, went on to win the 50-54 category Road Race and told me he was so inspired by my ride he attacked several times, caused a selection of five riders, dropped the field and he beat his compatriots in the sprint. He introduced me to his wife, Margo, and told her I was his hero. Man, how big is my head gonna be?

3:00pm Reception and Prize Presentation for Cuban Cyclists - This is a special part of this trip. Most Cuban riders are under equipped and in need of just about every bicycle racing need that is not produced in Cuba and that would be just about everything. My contribution of aerobars, tubes, helmet, socks and blinky light were lost in the three long tables of every thing from jerseys to shoes to components and on and on. Tickets were handed out and the gifts were treated as door prizes. Lunch and drinks were served and it was a very nice affair. I’ve got to learn Spanish.

At dinner a rider from Ecuador who finished 6 in m th y race today stopped by my table to congratulate me. He said he also wanted to see what I eat. I told him I eat everything and burn it up. Ronald Peters of Trinidad also stopped by to congratulate me and thank me again for the anti-diarrhea medication I had given him. He won a couple of events and was a constant presence on the podium of his category.

Sunday, September 26 -6:00am Breakfast, Load bikes, Leave for airport

9:00am Checked bags and bike weighed 78.1 pounds. I believe the airline was charging for bike boxes over 80 lbs. The charge was $50, I’m glad TACA didn’t charge on the “weigh” to Cuba. . . Yuk, yuk, yuk. I then paid the 25 CUC’s departure tax and cleared immigration. At the gate I had a grilled Cuban ham and cheese sandwich, a nice cup of Caf Americano and a water for only 5 CUC ($ 6.25).

12:00pm Flight to Miami - Arrived at Miami Airport a bit ahead of schedule, 12:50pm. Immigration and customs were a breeze (I should have bought that bottle of 7 yr old Havana Club), my checked bag was the first to pop up on the carousal and I had my bikes shortly thereafter. After bidding farewell I was the first of our party to head for my connecting flight. I checked in with US Airways and wondered what I would be charged for the bikes on the flight to Philly. The ticketing agent said the cost would be $160. As I did on the way down I produced the bike charge policy page from their website. She dug a bit deeper and said I was correct. The charge would only be $125. She then asked me if the box was less than 50lbs. I said no. She looked at me again and asked the same thing. This time I understood what she was trying to do and said, “Yes it sure is” and she ticketed it.

I decided to head straight for the gate and once again I was singled out by TSA for special scrutiny. This time they put me in what looked like a large, vertical, clear glass MRI machine. I had to take everything out of my pockets, wallet, money, paper towel, pack of gum, everything. After that the TSA agent went through my wallet looking inside and squeezing it for who knows what? Then another TSA guy asked me if this was my bag. I said, “Yes”, and he reached in and pulled out a can of jock itch spray, inspected it, replaced it in the bag and sent me on my way.

4:15pm US Airways Flight 794

7:09pm Arrive Philadelphia Airport - Home (almost) at last. Although I enjoyed every minute of the experience, it sure is great to see Sandy.

Final thoughts about Cuba, the Pan Am Masters Cycling Championships and the trip in general.

Cuba is a gorgeous island, at least the small part that I visited. The Cubans looked fit, generally happy,fashionable and enthusiastic. Havana is a beautiful city that needs work on the old buildings. They are beginning to restore the city, however. Our hotel was in an area about 20 kilometers east of Havana known as Playa del Este (East Beach) where people from Havana and environs go to the beach. There are many small restaurants, bars, grills and small hotels. Our hotel, the 3-star, all-inclusive Tropicoco, was quite large with 300 rooms and suites. It was well maintained, clean, the food was very good and the staff helpful and courteous. The Velodrome which is located five kilometers east of Havana in the Pan American Sports complex built for the Pan American Games in 1991. W hile in need of repair the facility is first-class and used hard. The Pan Am Cycling Confederation and the Cuban Cycling Federation organized and presented the Championships extremely well. W ith all the riders, categories, languages, etc, it was a daunting task, at best. The promoters, officials, volunteers, mechanics and medical staff embraced this event with uncommon enthusiasm. Everyone seems proud of their part. And finally, Mike Fraysse and his staff couldn’t have put a better trip together. I have a few special trips that I have experienced in all my years of travel and sport and this will figure prominently among them.

I can say I fell in love with Cuba and you can be sure Steve Lehman Tours will have an offering there as soon as the USA lifts the embargo. I can’t wait to share it with you.

Here is a video that played continually behind the front desk at the Hotel Tropicoco. It gives a pretty good representation of Cuba.  Enjoy Autentica Cuba: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99IBtics0wQ